BATTAMBANG

Wat Banan

Just over 20km to the south of Battambang, Phnom Banan is the best kept of the remaining Khmer ruins in the area, though again, when compared to Angkor Wat it isn’t so impressive. Dating back to the 11th century, Phnom Banan has also been heavily looted but it remains mostly upright. What is impressive from here are the superb views of the surrounds in all directions. 

A large field gun kept at the site once has now been removed. It’s a rather steep climb from ground level up to the ruins. Luckily at the top a few industrious drink sellers emerge, who will also be happy to show you around the temple and then the caves below on the left (when looking at the ruins from the stairs). These are well worth exploring, though note the cave entrance is almost at the base of the hill, so be sure you are finished with the ruins before you agree to go down.

Also note if it is a slow day -- very common here -- all the children here will offer to come with you, but they will all expect something for coming along. Be warned that the entrance to the caves is so small you need to wriggle through on your belly. 

Phnom Sampeu

This hilltop temple on the road to Snong and Pailin is one of the main locations of Battambang’s “Killing Fields”, with a large cave where victims were thrown into the caves either to their death or after being bludgeoned or had their throats cut. Children hang around the base of the temple and will walk up with you and act as your guides, some of them speak very good English. They will expect some money in return for show ing you around. According to our guides, there was one cave for women, one for men and one for children, though other sources differ in this regard. There are two ways to the summit, one by stairs, the other by a sweep ing trail with a far easier incline that runs around the hillock to the summit.
Phnom Sampeau is best visited in early morning or late afternoon when the light and the spectacular views are at their best. We’ve encountered some problems with motodops who have expressed an unwillingness to drive out to Phnom Sampeau, claiming that it is a bad place that tourists shouldn’t see. If you want to visit here, don’t feel uncomfortable about insisting you visit. The road out is partially sealed. Ask your motodop to take the main road out, but come back via one of the many back dirt-routes that meander through the paddies. In the late afternoon light, it is beautiful. 

Ek Phnom

Dates back to the 11th century and is one of the most visited attractions around Battambang. If you’ve already seen Angkor Wat you’ll probably find it to be a bit of a disap pointment, but if you haven’t been there yet, it’s a fine taster. On weekdays, you’re likely to have the entire place to yourself, while on weekends, it is a popular excursion for those from Battambang. The ruins have been heavily looted and look to have partially been collapsed on purpose to get at some sections of it. Out the front of the ruins is a new temple known for its murals. Ek Phnom is best reached from Battambang by motodop along the river road and takes around 45 minutes, passing through some beautiful scenery.

Colonial Buildings

These fine structures are dotted about the town and along the river, of which the grand French Era governor’s house is the most famous.